How to reject a car: Your consumer rights and the 30-day rule

If there is something wrong with the new or used car you have bought, you may have a legal right to have it repaired or replaced. In some cases you may also be able to reject the car and get a full refund.

The law central to your protection is the Consumer Rights Act 2015. This legislation states that goods, including cars bought from a dealer or trader, must be of satisfactory quality, fit for purpose and as described. If the car does not meet those standards, your rights depend on a number of factors including when the fault appears, how serious it is and whether you bought it from a business or a private seller.

In some circumstances you may even be able to reject the new car or a used car you have bought, but this is not an automatic right. In most instances, minor cosmetic issues, higher than expected running costs or simply deciding that you don't like it after buying it are not generally considered significant enough problems to entitle you to a refund.

You are in the strongest position to have issues remedied within the first 30 days of purchasing the car. Beyond that, the dealer will ordinarily have one opportunity to repair or replace it before you can press for a refund. After six months, the burden of proof becomes much harder because you will typically need to illustrate that the fault was present or developing when the car was sold to you.

What to do if a dealer sells you a faulty car?

If you discover a fault with the car you have bought, contact the dealer or trader as soon as possible. Do this in writing, even if you have already spoken to them on the phone, as it generates an evidence trail of correspondence.

The same applies if the car doesn't match the advert's description — such as stating it was 'like new' when it isn't — or if it varies in some way from what was on the order form or what you were told before buying — your consumer rights may have been breached. That's also the case if the car is not of satisfactory quality or is not fit for a specific purpose you made clear to the dealer at the point of purchase.

Following the procedure detailed below will ensure a higher probability of your claim being successfully dealt with:

Step 1

Do not immediately assume that rejecting the car is your best course of action. If the fault is minor and easy to fix, a repair may be quicker and less stressful than trying to reject the car. The dealer may be able to prove that the fault is not remotely significant enough to warrant the car being rejected.

Be very mindful of time limits when it comes to rejecting the car. If you are within the first 30 days since purchasing and you want to use the short-term right to reject, you must make that clear in writing. Do not let the dealer delay matters until the 30-day period has passed.

Ensure your written correspondence sets out:

• Your name and address

• The dealer’s name and address

• The car's purchase date

• The car’s registration number, make and model

• The price paid

• The mileage when purchased and currently

• Clear description(s) of the fault(s)

• When the fault(s) first appeared

• Any evidence you have of the fault(s)

• The outcome you want

• A deadline for response

If you are within the first 30 days of purchasing the car and want to reject it, state that clearly. For example:

'I am rejecting this vehicle under the Consumer Rights Act 2015 because it is not of satisfactory quality, fit for purpose or as described. I am exercising my short-term right to reject the vehicle and request a refund.'

If you are outside the first 30 days, the wording may need to be different. You may be asking for a repair, replacement, refund or price reduction depending on the circumstances.

Keep copies of the car's original advert, invoice, order form, finance agreement, inspection reports, emails, text messages and any repair paperwork.

Step 2

Escalate the issue within the dealership if the first response is not helpful by asking to speak to the sales manager, dealer principal or customer services leader.

Ensure your correspondence with the dealer is clear, factual and avoids inflammatory language. Send important letters by recorded delivery or a similar tracked service, as well as keeping proof of delivery. Email is also useful because it creates a clear written trail.

Legal action can be costly, time-consuming and stressful, with no guarantee of success. A clear written complaint, supported by evidence, gives you a better chance of resolving the matter before it reaches that stage.

Keep a record of all conversations and correspondence, asking the dealer to confirm it in writing anything which has been agreed verbally. That includes when the car will be inspected or repaired, whether a courtesy car will be provided and when you should expect a decision.

Step 3

If the dealer refuses your rejection or does not respond, contact Citizens Advice for further guidance. They can explain your rights and may refer the issue to Trading Standards where appropriate.

If the dealer agrees you are entitled to a refund, it must be given without undue delay — the maximum permitted timescale is within 14 days from the day the trader agrees the refund is due.

You do not ordinarily have to accept repeated repair attempts if the first repair fails and you would prefer to not keep the car.

Your rights in the first 30 days: The short-term right to reject

The Consumer Rights Act 2015 covers goods, services and digital content. For car buyers, it applies to new and used cars bought from dealers and traders.

It does not apply in the same way to private car sales. If you bought the car from a private individual, your rights are more limited.

Under the Consumer Rights Act, a car must be:

• Of satisfactory quality

• Fit for purpose

• As described

If those rights have been breached, you may have the short-term right to reject the car within the first 30 days of purchasing it. The Consumer Rights Act sets out that the short-term right to reject is lost if that time limit passes without the consumer exercising it.

This can apply if the fault was present when you bought the car, was developing at that point, or it was supplied in a condition that did not match what you were told you would be buying.

In practice, you should act quickly. Inform the dealer in writing that you are rejecting the car under the Consumer Rights Act 2015 and explain why. Do not simply stop communicating or leave the car at the dealer without written confirmation of your position.

Remember that your rights are against the supplier, not the manufacturer of the car. This usually means the dealer which sold it to you, but it can also involve finance companies if it was purchased using one of their products.

Your rights after 30 days

After the first 30 days of purchase the short-term right to reject is no longer available, but that doesn't mean you lose all of your consumer protection rights.

If a fault appears between 30 days and six months after purchasing the car, you are usually entitled to a repair or replacement. In this period, the law generally assumes the fault was present at the time of purchase unless the seller can prove otherwise.

The dealer normally has one opportunity to repair or replace the faulty car. If the repair fails or the replacement is unsatisfactory, you may then be entitled to reject the car and ask for a refund.

However, the refund may be reduced to reflect the time you have already had with the car — this is usually referred to as a deduction for use.

If you successfully reject a car after three months' ownership, the dealer may argue for a deduction based on the mileage covered or the benefit you have had from using the car. The amount should be reasonable and may be disputed if you think it is excessive.

Your rights after six months

After six months, your position becomes much more difficult, unfortunately

You may still have rights, but the burden is usually on you to prove that the vehicle was faulty when it was sold or that the fault was developing at the time of sale. That may require an independent inspection report from a qualified mechanic or engineer, which you will have to pay for in the first instance.

Such faults can happen where hidden damage or a serious underlying defect is discovered later. Such scenarios arise when the car goes to a workshop for unrelated repairs and the technician finds evidence of previous accident damage, poor repair work or a long-standing mechanical problems.

The longer you have owned the car, the harder it usually becomes to prove the issue was present when the trader sold it. Wear and tear, mileage, servicing and how the car has been used will all become relevant.

You may have legal rights for several years after purchase, but that does not mean every fault that appears during that period is the dealer’s responsibility to put right. The key question is whether the fault was present or developing when the car was supplied.

What about private vehicle sales?

When buying privately, from an individual rather than a business, you have far fewer rights.

A private seller must still describe the car accurately. If the advert says the car has had one previous owner, a full service history and has never been involved in an accident, those statements should be true. If they aren't, you may have a claim for misrepresentation.

However, you will not usually be entitled to a refund simply because the car develops a fault at any point after its purchase or because the seller did not mention every possible issue in the advert.

What's key is that the seller must not misrepresent the car, such as by hiding the fact that it has been written off, giving it a false service history or making claims about mileage, ownership or condition which don''t match reality.

The car must also be roadworthy unless it is clearly sold as not being so — remember that a valid MOT certificate is not a guarantee that the car is roadworthy on the day you purchased it.

If a private seller refuses to accept your complaint, you may need to consider alternative dispute resolution or legal action. That can be expensive and there is no guarantee you will win.

Keep a record of the advert, messages, emails, payment details and any notes from conversations. The more time passes, the harder it becomes to prove exactly how the car differed from how it was described.

What if I traded in a car?

If you part-exchanged your old car for the car you are rejecting, you should not assume you will get the part-exchanged car back. An active and successful dealer may have already sold it or it could have been immediately sent off to auction.

Instead, the agreed part-exchange value should normally be included in the refund calculation.

If the rejection happens within the first 30 days of purchasing and is accepted, the dealer should not usually make deductions for wear and tear, collection or use of the rejected vehicle.

After 30 days, the calculation can be more complicated. If you have used the new car for a period of time, the dealer may argue for a deduction for use before refunding the balance.

Make sure you keep copies of paperwork showing the agreed trade-in value, the invoice for the new car and any finance settlement figures.

What about the Small Claims Court?

Going to court should usually be a last resort. Try to settle the matter with the dealer first and make sure you have followed a clear complaints process.

Once a dealer understands that you know your rights and have evidence to support the car's rejection, they may be more willing to resolve the dispute. Be firm, but reasonable.

If the dealer and finance company refuse to accept your rejection, you may need to consider court action. Before doing this, get legal advice and check the latest court rules, claim limits and fees, as these can change.

Bear in mind that if you are rejecting the car, continuing to use it while taking legal action can undermine your claim for rejection. In some cases, the car may need to remain unused while the dispute is ongoing.

Court action can take time and may well involve expensive fees, both for case preparation and its presentation. Plus you do risk losing the case and may have the dealer's costs awarded to you as well as your own. Keep it as a last resort rather than your first response.

What if the dealer refuses a rejection?

If the dealer refuses to accept your rejection, ask them to explain their reasons in writing.

They may argue that the fault is not serious enough, was not present at the time of sale, has been caused by misuse, or is normal wear and tear. You need to understand their position before deciding what to do next.

Your next steps may include:

• Asking for a written inspection report

• Getting an independent inspection

• Contacting Citizens Advice

• Raising a complaint with the finance company, if the car was bought using a finance product

• Using an approved alternative dispute resolution scheme, where available

• Considering court action if all other routes fail

If you eventually obtain a court judgment and the dealer still does not pay, enforcement options may be available. Get advice before taking this step, as the process and costs will depend on the circumstances.

Can I reject a car on finance?

Yes, you may be able to reject a car bought on finance, but the process can be different.

If the car was bought using hire purchase (HP) or personal contract plan (PCP), the finance company is usually closely involved because it may legally own the car until the final payment as been made. You should ensure you complain to both the finance company and the dealer.

Set out the same information as previously outlined, including the fault, when it appeared, what evidence you have and what outcome you want.

Do not simply stop making finance payments unless you have been legally advised to do so. Missed payments can affect your credit record, even if you are in dispute about the car.

If you paid any part of the cost by credit card, Section 75 of the Consumer Credit Act may give you additional protection. The rules depend on the amount paid, the total price and the type of credit used, so check your position carefully.

What if I think I’ve been mis-sold a car?

Mis-selling can happen if the dealer recommends or sells a car that is unsuitable for the needs you clearly explained, or gives misleading information that affects your decision to buy.

For example, if you told a dealer in writing that you mainly do short urban trips and very low annual mileage, but they recommended a diesel-engined model without explaining the risk of diesel particulate filter (DPF) issues, you may argue that the car was unsuitable for your needs.

Diesel cars can be a poor fit for repeated short journeys because the engine may not regularly get hot enough for the DPF to regenerate properly. That can lead to warning lights, poor running and expensive repairs.

The difficulty is evidence. Unless you can show what you told the dealer and what they advised, a mis-selling complaint can be hard to prove.

Before buying, it is sensible to email the dealer with your requirements. For example, your annual mileage, typical journey length, whether you need to tow, whether you need a certain boot size and whether the car must suit child seats, motorway driving or city use. That creates a written record if a dispute arises later.

What if my new car is not what I ordered?

Sometimes the issue is relatively small, such as a different infotainment system, missing trim detail or a changed option pack. In other cases, it may be more serious, such as the wrong engine, colour, gearbox or factory option.

If you specifically ordered something and the car does not match the order, raise it before accepting the vehicle. If the difference is significant, you may be entitled to refuse delivery.

Check the order form carefully. The important question is what was agreed in writing, not just what you remember discussing.

Manufacturers do change specifications over time and some equipment may vary from one year to another. For Volkswagen Group cars, including those from Audi, Cupra, SEAT, Skoda and VW, models, body styles, trim level names, option packs and software features can and do vary. Check the order form, build specification and handover paperwork carefully rather than relying only on the advert.

If the dealer tells you the specification has changed, ask for the explanation in writing of what's different before accepting the car.

What if I didn’t see the vehicle before buying?

This most commonly happens when you buy a vehicle online or over the phone and have it delivered.

Buying online does not remove your consumer rights. If you buy from a dealer or trader at distance, you may also have cancellation rights under the Consumer Contracts Regulations.

For many distance sales, the trader must tell you that you can cancel the order up to 14 days after delivery and you do not need to give a reason why you're handing it back.

This is usually called a cooling-off period, but it is not the same as rejecting a faulty car. You may be cancelling because you changed your mind, not because there is anything wrong with the vehicle.

These rules usually apply to distance sales from a business, but not private sales. They may also not apply in the same way if the car has been built specifically for or modified to your personal specifications.

The position can also be affected if you visit the dealer’s premises to sign paperwork, pay a deposit or collect the car. Before agreeing to buy remotely, ask the dealer to confirm in writing whether the sale is being treated as a distance sale and what cancellation rights apply.

What if i’ve just changed my mind?

If you bought the car in person and there is nothing wrong with it, you do not usually have an automatic right to return it just because you have changed your mind.

A dealer may offer a return policy as a goodwill gesture or as part of its own sales terms, but that is not the same as a statutory right to reject.

If you bought the car remotely from a trader, such as online or over the phone, you may have a 14-day cancellation right. The cooling-off period generally starts the day after delivery. Remember that this does not usually apply to cars bought from private sellers and may not apply in the same way to bespoke or personalised vehicles.

If you are relying on a cooling-off period, tell the seller in writing within the deadline and keep proof that you did so.

Protection from Unfair Trading Regulations

Dealers must comply with consumer protection rules that prevent unfair business practices.

This includes giving false information, leaving out important information, using aggressive sales tactics or pressuring buyers into quick decisions. Examples may include:

• Falsely claiming a vehicle has been approved or inspected

• Hiding the result of checks already carried out

• Failing to explain key warranty exclusions

• Giving misleading finance information

• Claiming a car is only available for a very limited time when that is not true

• Failing to disclose important known issues with the vehicle

If you think a dealer has acted unfairly, gather evidence. Keep the advert, messages, sales documents, finance paperwork, warranty details and any written claims made before you bought the car.

Unfair trading rules can support a complaint, especially where the issue is not just that the car developed a fault, but that you were misled before buying it.

What evidence do I need to reject a car?

Evidence is often what makes the difference between a complaint and a successful rejection. Useful evidence includes:

• The original advert

• The order form and invoice

• Finance documents

• Warranty documents

• Emails and text messages with the dealer

• Photos or videos of the fault

• Diagnostic reports

• Onspection reports

• Breakdown recovery paperwork

• Repair invoices

• MOT history

• Service records

• Notes of phone calls and their dates

If the fault is serious or disputed, an independent inspection report can be useful. The report should explain what the fault is, whether it is likely to have been present or developing at the time of sale and whether the car is safe or reasonable to use.